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Classes - What to Bring (Requirements List) - Dressmaking (Denim Jacket)

Requirements List - Dressmaking (Denim Jacket)

S8845 Jeans Jacket course (2025)

An important message from your tutor

Please read:

Although none of the steps in the construction of this jacket are particularly difficult, there are a LOT of steps.

The course runs for three consecutive Thursday afternoons from 2.00- 5.00pm, ie a total of 9 hours.  I have made a sample and I am sure that I could not make this jacket within 9 hours.  This means that it will be necessary to focus on the more complex steps and techniques in each 3 hour session and it will be important to work on your jacket between the course sessions to catch up and be ready to move on to the next step.

Those of you who have been on my courses before will know that I place a lot of emphasis on correct fit and we often spend the whole of the first session measuring and making a toile.  Luckily this is not a super fitted garment and in addition, it is unisex, so we would not expect it to fit the body very closely.   Because of the amount of sewing required it is not going to be possible to devote the whole first session to fit. 

You are therefore requested to collect your copy of the pattern in advance of the course and come to the first formal session of the course with your pattern prepared, your fabric cut out and ready to sew. 

To ensure no-one gets left behind, on the Thursday the week BEFORE the first session I will be at the shop 2.00pm to 4.00pm to help anyone attending the course with any of the following:

•    Choosing the correct size
•    Making pattern adjustments

If you would like support then please let Escape & Create know in advance you are coming.  If no-one gives advanced notice that they need support I may not be there.  There will be no extra charge for this.

If you would like some help or support but are unable to come the previous Thursday then please let the shop know and they will put you into contact with me.  We will work something out to help you.

Even if you do feel able to do this without support here are some tips:

•    Measurements - if you are making this for someone else you will need their measurements or at the very least the measurements of another jacket that fits them well
•    in all cases, ie even if you are making this for yourself, have someone help you with measuring across your upper back, ie from one sleeve seam to another when wearing a garment with set in sleeves - this will help you choose an appropriate yoke size.  In my sample jacket that I made for my son I cut the yoke in a size L widthwise and graded down to a size M for the main body and hips.
•    Yoke and shoulders - look at the picture on the pattern of Mimi G wearing her white jacket - the shoulders of the jacket extend beyond her shoulders, ie it is very obviously intended to be a drop shouldered jacket.  It is a unisex jacket so we would expect this.  Think about how far you want your sleeves to drop beyond your shoulders and measure the yoke pieces carefully to ensure that you get the fit you want
•    Bust and hip ratio if you are typical female shape with shoulders narrower than your hips, you may need to grade between sizes ie cut the shoulders in a size small and the hips in a size medium (or in my case an extra large!!!).  If you need to grade out significantly (more than 4 cms/1.5” in total (that’s only 1cm/3/8” at each side seam) I would suggest you spread the grading across the three front panels and the three back panels rather than adding all the extra width at the side seams. Please reach out to me if you need help to do this.
•    Check the finished garment measurements at the hips to make sure your jacket will do up- you’ll need AT LEAST 7.5cms/3” minimum of ease at the hips to enable you to sit down with your jacket done up.  Wrap a tape measure around you hips and sit down to check how much ease you would prefer to have. Again you may need to grade out a size or two even if you are happy with the fit at the shoulders.  Spread any significant additional width needed out between the panels and don’t forget to also extend the bottom hem band pattern piece.
•    Sleeve width at bicep - if the person you are making the garment for has wider than average biceps you amy also need to alter the upper sleeve pattern piece - there are plenty of Youtube videos out there on how to do a ‘full bicep adjustment’ - this one specifically deals with a two part sleeve.  The fit videos on this channel are amazing (even if the fabrics are … well…see for yourself)   
•    Length - Check the length of the centre back (including the yoke and after deducting seam allowances) and the underarm seam of the sleeve (including the cuff and after deducting seam allowances).  
•    I made the sample jacket for my son who is 6’1” tall and has long arms. I added 4 cms to the length of the body and 8 cms to the length of the sleeves - I may have given birth to a gorilla!  If you have to add or subtract length make sure you do this on all 5 of the body pattern pieces and both the sleeve pattern pieces.
•    To interface or not - the pattern does not advise you to interface your fabric at all except in the area of the welt pockets.  If your choice of fabric is not heavy enough for a jacket I would strongly recommend that you interface the following pattern pieces: collar; cuffs; pocket flaps; welts; front band (the part of the centre front piece that will be folded in); hip band.


And finally don’t forget to wash and dry your fabric as you will wash and dry your finished garment at least once before you cut it.  

Fabric - Chino, Corduroy, Denim, Sateen, Twill. It is suggested that you do not choose anything too heavy because of the number of layers of fabric at certain points in the construction. For requirements, please see the pattern envelope.

Interfacing - as above.

Notions - as per the pattern envelope.

 

What to Bring

  • Sewing Machine, Foot pedal and Power Lead (see our info on transporting your machine to class)
  • The Instruction Book
  • Bobbins loaded with the correct thread (must be the correct bobbins for your machine) plus spare bobbins
  • All the feet and accessories that came with the machine plus the following if you have them:
    • to make your topstitching beautiful you will need a blind hemming/overcasting foot (a G foot in Janome) and a 6mm/1/4” seaming foot (an O foot in Janome) in both cases with a guide that extends below the bottom of the foot
  • Sewing Machine needles: Jeans 90/14 or 100/16 as appropriate for the fabric you are using. Topstitch needles. 
  • Unpicker
  • Machine sewing thread to match and to contrast (topstitching thread if desired)
  • Fading/Iron off/Wash off Pen in a contrast colour to your chosen fabrics
  • Tailors Chalk or Chalk Wheel
  • Pen, pencil and notebook 
  • Pins 
  • Fabric scissors for cutting out 
  • Paper scissors
  • Small pair of scissors with sharp points
  • Tape measure
  • Bulky Seam Aid/ Hump Jumper ( we sell these in the shop for a few pounds if you don't have one)

Machine Sewing Classes

 

 

We do not provide sewing machines for classes as we believe that you will learn more from using your own machine. If your machine is too heavy to lift; let us know before the class and we can make exception by prior arrangement.

We can help you to get your sewing machine from your car to the workshop space upstairs if you pull up outside the shop on the double yellow lines to drop it off. Then you can go and park in the car park behind the shop (see directions here).

Lunch Breaks

If your class goes over lunchtime you can either:

  • Bring your lunch with you
  • Pre-order your lunch from the lovely cafe opposite the shop (The Commute).

Our classes generally only break for a maximum 30 minutes so there isn't really time to go out and buy lunch during the day.

We have tea and coffee available all day free of charge. In classes less than 3 hours we ask that you come early and make a drink before we start.