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Classes - What to Bring (Requirements List) - Dressmaking (Lined Wrap Coat)

Requirements List - Dressmaking (Coat Making - Lined Wrap Coat M8438)

On this course we are making McCalls M8438; a lovely lined long coat that wraps across the front with a tie belt.

The pattern comes in 2 size ranges and you will need to collect your pattern and cut out some of the pieces prior to the first session (see below).

Our tutor, Julie Jordan, will be at the shop on the Thursday before the course starts (8th January between 2pm and 4pm) if you would like help with sizing or fabric choices or if you have any questions - see below for more information from Julie.

Please wash your fabric prior to the class but only if it is washable. Bear in mind many coatings are dry clean only and may shrink significantly if washed.

What to Bring

  • Sewing Machine, Foot pedal and Power Lead (see our info on transporting your machine to class)
  • The Instruction Book
  • Bobbins loaded with the correct thread (must be the correct bobbins for your machine) plus spare bobbins
  • All the feet and accessories that came with the machine (including a walking/even feed foot if you have one - this will help stop the top layer of your fabric from shifting as you sew the long seams required for this)
  • Sewing Machine needles appropriate for the fabric you are using
  • Unpicker
  • Matching sewing thread 
  • Fading/Iron off/Wash off Pen in a contrast colour to your chosen fabrics or
  • Tailors Chalk or Chalk Wheel. Test out on your fabric prior to the course and if necessary purchase an appropriate alternative.
  • Pen, pencil and notebook 
  • Pins / Wonder Clips
  • Fabric scissors for cutting out 
  • Paper scissors
  • Small pair of scissors with sharp points
  • Tape measure
  • Clapper (if you have one). Especially if you are using a wool or wool blend fabric - your seams will look so perfectly professional with a good shot of steam and a clapper. We sell these in the shop and you can purchase one at a discounted price on the course if you don't already own one. 
  • Pressing Cloth
  • Interfacing Cloth (where class involves using interfacing or bondaweb).

Note from your Tutor:

 

Special issues to consider:

  1. Size ranges: The pattern is available in two size ranges: D5 4-6-8-10-12 and P5 12-14-16-18-20 - make sure you have the right one.  The coat has a lot of ease and you will mostly likely need to come down a size or two even. If you normally cut a 12 or a 14 check the finished garment measurements (available here) carefully before choosing your pattern size range.

2. Fabric quantities: use the metric fabric requirements on the pattern envelope - some of the imperial ones on my copy are just plain wrong.  

 


3. Measurements: Measure yourself and compare your measurements to the McCalls sizes AND the finished garment measurements.  

 


4. You need to know whether you need to grade out at the waist or hip, whether the waist will sit in the right place for your body proportions and whether the sleeves will be long enough and wide enough at the bicep.  You may need to look at the actual pattern pieces for some of these measurements or even measure the flat pattern pieces - don’t forget to allow for seam allowances.

5. Adjust the pattern pieces as necessary:
• Grade the pattern between sizes
• Lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces
• Do you need an FBA or a full bicep adjustment?

 


6. Please cut out before the first class.  

 


7. When cutting out be mindful of any nap your fabric may have and cut all the pieces in the same direction. 

 


8. The pattern pieces are LONG - especially the side body which extends up the underside of the sleeve.  Be extra careful to mark ALL the notches and dots as these will be essential in helping you identify the different pattern pieces and put them together correctly.   You might also want to label the cut pieces with a bit of masking tape on the reverse so you can easily tell them apart.  If your fabric looks the same on the right and wrong side mark the wrong side with a big chalk cross or similar.

 


Here’s the plan for the 3 weeks
Week 1 - You will need to come to class with your lining pieces cut out and also the front and back facings cut out and interfaced.  We’ll be sewing the lining - this will help you to understand the construction of the coat, which is slightly unusual. 
In preparation for Week 2 we’ll talk about adding some extra interfacing at the shoulders, cuffs, hem and upper back of the outer coat.  

 


Week 2 - Come to class with cut out and interfaced outer coat pieces.  If you can also make the belt loops and the belt itself before class you will be ahead of the game.  
We’ll be sewing the outer coat pieces together ie the fronts, side, backs and sleeves and making the side seam pockets. 

 


Week 3 - Come to class with a complete lining and outer coat ready for this final week - there is unlikely to be time for you to catch up in class.  
We’ll be attaching the coat and lining together using the bagging out method, and hopefully making the two buttonholes and sewing on 
the buttons. Ta da!!!
See you on 8th or 15th January. Julie

 

 

Machine Sewing Classes

 

 

We do not provide sewing machines for classes as we believe that you will learn more from using your own machine. If your machine is too heavy to lift; let us know before the class and we can make exception by prior arrangement.

We can help you to get your sewing machine from your car to the workshop space upstairs if you pull up outside the shop on the double yellow lines to drop it off. Then you can go and park in the car park behind the shop (see directions here).

Lunch Breaks

If your class goes over lunchtime you can either:

  • Bring your lunch with you
  • Pre-order your lunch from the lovely cafe opposite the shop (The Commute).

Our classes generally only break for a maximum 30 minutes so there isn't really time to go out and buy lunch during the day.

We have tea and coffee available all day free of charge. In classes less than 3 hours we ask that you come early and make a drink before we start.